Teepees with Internet in Shambhalabamba: a Modern Self-sustaining Community in Ecuador

The common kitchen is flanked by plantain trees on side, and mountains on the other

“This place is how life should be. There is no schedule. There is no job to buy the things that you think you need. You just have to find a balance between living, working the land, and being happy.  We all support each other in doing what we want. This place is so healing.”.

Such are the thoughts of Andrea, a 27-year-old American who has been traveling through South and Central America for two years. When she first came to Shambhalabamba along with her partner, the intention was to stay a week or two.

They will soon complete their ninth month here.

 

The community of Shambhalabamba is situated in a valley near Vilcabamba, in South-Eastern Ecuador. Three acres of land were bought here by a retired American who decided to make a self-sustaining community of it. He had a house built for himself, sustained by 40-metre-high tree trunks, and six teepees for future community residents.

Fast-forward six months.

There is now a common kitchen, an auditorium for circus practice, a studio for mixing and recording music, a small man-made lake for swimming, a pond for the fish, and fields of a wide variety of crops: bananas, oranges, sweet potatoe, quinoa, amaretto, yuca, corn, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, peas, carrots, mangos, avocados, medicinal plants, and many different herbs.

The number of residents fluctuates between 18 and 25. Andrea and her partner built a little house there, and two more families are in the process of building their own houses.

One major trait unites the people of Shambhalabamba: they all aspire to live freely, working only for themselves. There are street performers, painters, DJs, producers, artisans, and musicians. They don´t gain much – but they don´t mind living simply.  Besides, the cost for staying in Shambhalabamba is of a mere five dollars per week – the necessary to cover the cost of food that is not yet grown on the property.

 

A vegan lunch: oven-roasted eggplant with garlic and tomato sauce,
pumpkin soup, beans and peppers with rice, spinach tortilla, and salad. 

In the morning, there is ususally a ´minga´. This is a time where everyone in the community gets together to complete a major task – this could be anything from transporting heavy materials, to cleaning and sowing a field, to building a clay oven.

Lunch is served for all between 1 and 4 pm (the notion of time holds very little value here, to the subdued frustration of those who try to schedule an activity at a precise hour).

In the afternoon, people do what they want.

“Every day, you ask yourself ´what should I do? Should I draw, dance, swim, cook, play music, go to the circus workshop?”, says Fiama, a 20-year-old Argentinian  who came to Shambhalabamba along with her partner and her 1-year old baby. “This place influences upon you a desire to be creative.”.

However, more so than the daily activities, residents stress the value of the human relations pervade this community. “We are mirrors of other people. It´s thanks to these human relations that you purify yourself of many things”, says Lucio, a 37-year-old Ecuadorian who came to the community with his partner and 10-year-old daughter. Andrea agrees: “ It´s about living with an open heart, and caring for others as your own family”.  Indeed, the three toddlers in the community are entertained and cared for by nearly all the residents, children and adults alike.

A short lapse of attention and... 

But like everything else, Shambhalabamba has its faults.

 “The majority of residents here are foreigners. I have never seen a local person, and very few Ecuadorians.”, says Mitchell, a Mexican expert in permeaculture who has spent time in many different communities. “Generally speaking, there is very little interaction between eco-villages and their surrounding communities. They should be supporting the needs of these communities through initiating small-scale commerce with them, or by attending the community`s festivities, for instance.".

Upon the arrival of any resident, the community holds a private reunion to decide whether to let the newcomers stay or not. Fiama, who was given an ambiguous nod to stay, laments the process: “I wish the community was more open, more relaxed. That people here wouldn´t feel like this is their land, and only theirs to share.”.

The lake on the property, mirroring the mountains.

But despite its faults, there is no denying that the way of living in Shambhalabamba holds a minimal ecological footprint, and greatly fosters self-sustainability.

“This lifestyle is the way of the future if we are going to live in harmony and balance again in this world. This system is not going to last, so it´s very important to learn how to be self-sustainable”.

According to Lucio, this lifestyle is possible, though more difficult, in the city. “In the city, it´s much easier to alienate yourself from your spirit, and from that connection to the land.”.

A circus workshop in the auditorium

Mitchell is of a similar opinion: “It´s possible, but everything will be more expensive, especially all the materials that you will need to build your own house”.

Andrea has aspirations to intertwine the two. “I want to start helping people learn how to grow their own food in their apartments. To show them that it´s possible. Anyone can do it, as long as they have the right frame of mind.”.

After spending a month there, I left Shambhalabamba with a pervading feeling of hope and inspiration. Maybe I can actually live my life exactly the way I want. I can be a journalist, a musician, an economic analyst, a photographer, a mother.

Why choose? I will try it all.

0 living expenses: living in a shack in New Orleans

Only the stairs to the front entrance of a house remain from the passage of hurricane Katrina

Sarah is the daughter of a priest. James is a professional bass player.  Chuck is studying to become a math teacher. And Tom has a master's degree in public health.
All four have been voluntarily living in temporary housing since last summer, on two lots of land bought by James for a few grands. The land is situated in the 9th Ward, the hardest-hit area by hurricane Katrina back in 2005.

The hand-made shack in the foreground, and trailer in the background

Sarah lives in a small, oval-sized trailer. Chuck and Tom alternate between a tent and a shack, which the three young men built themselves.  And James has plans to build a bigger house in the fall.

Why would four young, educated people with savings in the bank choose to live in such conditions?

"All four of us have lived in a community, and know the benefits of it", explains Chuck, 26.

I smile, remembering the moment when I first entered the shack, Chuck showing me the elevated mattress I would be sleeping on for the next two nights (I was couch surfing). As soon as we entered, Chuck frantically picked up a pair of folded jeans on the mattress, and examined the spot where there had previously been a tear:  "I love living with a woman!", he exclaimed.
I should learn how to sew, I told myself.

The shack has a bunk bed, two windows, a tiled roof, shelves, and a sofa chair

However, one thing distinguishes this community from others:  they have absolutely no living expenses.

For Chuck, avoiding these expenses is a thrill: "I think there's a sense of enjoyment when you find a way to be resourceful. It's like when you find a good deal online. It's the same thing: I find a way not to pay for rent, shoes, clothes, food. It's fun.".

Free shoes, clothes, and food are all found in one smelly, but treasure-laden place:  the dumpster.

Practicing it as a daily activity, these young adults have become experts at dumpster diving. They know which dumpster to go to for sushi on Tuesdays; for untouched pizza any day of the week at 10:05 pm after the pizza shop closes at 10:00 pm; for clean, new clothes that somehow ended up in garbage bags; and for one day-old fruits and vegetables.

A dumpster is full of strawberries,
spinach, and bananas

Chuck and Sarah enjoy still-hot pizza fresh out of the dumpster

But choosing this lifestyle is not only based on 'fun'.

Tom, in particular, is motivated by a political ideology: "Not spending money is an objective of mine. I think governments do a lot of evil, life-destroying things that I don't want to contribute to through taxes".
All four 'neighbours' are acutely aware of the environmental impact (or lack of it) that their lifestyle induces.  They collect rainwater in large cylinders, and use it for washing their clothes, bathing, and cooking.

"We don't use any electricity", says Chuck. "If everyone lived the way we did, we wouldn't need coal, gas, hydro-electric dams, etc.".

Chuck is fishing for crabs in the Industrial Canal of New Orleans

What about jobs?  Is it feasible to have one step in the professional world, and the other in the dumpster?
"Absolutely", says Chuck, who aspires to become a mathematics teacher.  "You just have to keep your professional and your personal lives separate. You have to show up to work looking good, smelling good, with a tie and a nice shirt.  Then when you get home, you take it all off. You have to live a lie".

I was deeply inspired by these four individuals. It takes courage to live with minimal security, with no revenue, and in contradiction to societal and familial expectations.  But they are young, smart, healthy, and in no hurry to satisfy anyone's expectations but their own.
Power to them.

The American West coast: 1250 miles. 7 cities. 19 days.

It took 19 days, but it rather felt like 3 months - in the best way possible. Is it completely irrational to believe that the more people you meet in a day, the more places you discover, and the more foods you taste, the more hours your day will stretch into?
Call me crazy, but I think I found a way to control time.

Part of me wishes I had spent more than 3-4 days in each city. I would have better been able to distinguish one city from the other. All I have for you is a few pointers.  
On the other hand, 3-4 days was enough to establish a most trusting and durable friendship with the Americans I stayed with along the way.  It was enough for me to send postcards to my Canadian compatriots on which I can assert that when I think of the kindest, most generous people I have met in my lifetime,  many of them are situated on the American West coast.
But friendships I cannot translate on paper. So allow me to present a brief synopsis of cities instead.

• George, Washington

My experience in George, save for a dip in a lake (on the left), was strictly a musical one.
I ended up there after seeing an ad on craigslist: Leaving Vancouver on Saturday, driving to DMB, coming back on Monday. Two days later, I was crossing the border with two strangers, or rather soon-to-be friends.


Every year, the Dave Matthews Band occupies the center stage for three consecutive days at the Gorge Amphitheatre, said to be the most impressive natural amphitheater in North America
 (where Sasquatch takes place).
I had the most amazing weekend there with Andrew
 from Vancouver, Adam from Australia, Shellane from Bellingham, and Andrea from Alaska.

• Seattle, Washington

Alright, I have to agree with the common saying that Seattle resembles Vancouver.  The ocean, the mountains, the liberal spirit, the rain.  But every city has its unique hang-out places, such as Pine Box, a very spacious, two-story restaurant in Capitol Hill.  Try their oven-baked pizzas, and one of the 50 different choices of beers on tap.



However, what was most memorable during my time in Seattle was the green space it is situated in. My friend Annie and I took a hike to the foothills of Cascade Mountains, where we reached the Goldmyer hot springs.  In the middle of the forest and adjacent to a creek, four basins with waters ranging from icy-cold to hot tub-like temperatures can hold a maximum of seven people.  Clothing optional.

• Portland, Oregon

 Apparently, Portland is America's bicycle capital. The bicycle theme was definitely prevalent in the arts and crafts sold at the weekly Saturday market, along the waterfront. Bicycle necklaces, bicycle T-shirts, bicycle paintings, you name it.
One can easily spend two hours there, trying samples of all kinds: home-made jam, meat sauces, flower-scented soaps, Californian wine...







Portland is known for its numerous microbreweries.  I strongly recommend you try a Black Butte, a delicious stout made in Oregon.
Live music is also prevalent in this charming little city.  I saw some great bands there.
I discovered most of these places thanks to my very kind couch surfing host, Bill.

• Medford, Oregon

My wonderful craigslist driver (Erik) and I stopped there just for one night on our way to San Francisco.
In Medford, I had a delightful tray of 11 beer samples.

• San Francisco, California

Ah, the much awaited for city!  The sun, the surf, the surrounding wineries!  This is what I had in mind upon my arrival in SF.  Not San Fran - I was told only tourists say that.

This pre-conceived image was clearly lacking foundation.  It was very cold when I arrived in SF, around 17 degrees Celsius, and overcast. Forget about the surfing.  And the closest winery was an hour away by car, which I did not have.

But everything turned out for the best, thanks to Kevin, Alex and Chris - three locals I met on my first night in a bar, who later showed me the best of the city. 

They lent me a bike, and we rode across the Golden Gate Bridge. We stopped in Sausalito for the most exquisite fish tacos.

I was told that SF is known for its coffee culture ("C'mon, a surf culture? Only tourists say that."). Indeed, I do believe I tasted the best coffee I've ever had in a gigantic coffee shop with multiple coffee bars. The barista told me that training for his position lasted three months.  After your coffee, head over to the 21st Amendment, a beautiful microbrewery, for San Franciscan lagers!    

•  Los Angeles, California

Several people had advised me to skip LA.  I almost took their advise,  having no particular interest in seeing Hollywood. But I reasoned myself into going anyway, not seeing a reason not to go, especially that it was on my way. Considering it was a fall back plan, my two-day stay there turned out to be an amazing time  - but only so thanks to my wonderful hosts Tim and Rene.  

We saw a great comedy show, which is supposedly a very popular form of entertainment in LA;  we visited the Getty at nighttime (free admission to one of the most renowned museums in the US, with breath-taking views of LA).  During the day, we hiked up to the Hollywood sign, and biked over to Santa Monica for some wave-jumping!

• San Diego, California

Will it sound familiar if I say that San Diego was only a memorable city because my hosts made it to be so?  I wish I could give you a little more variety.

For me, San Diego was palm trees; Mexicans starting a conversation with me in Spanish on the bus, assuming I understood them; the beach in Coronado island, peaceful except for the 15 planes that flew above us from the military aviation base; deliciously greasy Cali-Mexican food (see to the right); and bars with disturbingly well-centered animal trophies hung on the wall (see below).

And let's not forget the world-renowned San Diego Zoo, where the staff suspiciously repeated at every stop in the guided tour how this zoo is not just a zoo, it is a conservation center, a research facility, a protection haven for endangered species... look, even our benches are made of recycled plastic water bottles!  So please, do buy our backstage pass to see our animals from very very close! (See below)

You'll understand, now, how 19 days felt like a lifetime.

The Juan de Fuca trail:  47 km of rejuvenation, disconnection, and cheese-free mac 'n' cheese

Sunset at Bear beach - Juan de Fuca trail

Yes, even 21-year-olds feel old sometimes.
By the time we reach 21, we have had plenty of time to collect a nice burden of responsibilities, whether they be financial, work-related, or simply from the various relationships with friends, lovers and family we have committed ourselves to. 
At 21, often a point of entry into the "professional world", many of us are gradually losing our sense of adventure, of curiosity, even forgetting the person we had really wanted to become.  For some 21 year-olds, that person has been silenced for a long time now, hastily buried away in a dark corner, regretting not having received proper mourning.

So whether you are 60, 40, but especially 21, go on an overnight hike.  Do the Juan de Fuca Trail.

 This trail, located on the West coast of Vancouver Island, was originally known as the "Graveyard of the Pacific" due to the 137 shipwrecks that occurred along its shore between 1830 and 1925. It served as a life-saving trail that serviced this area.

Today, the 47 km-long trail is a destination for locals and tourists in search of a challenging hike (the trail is divided between four sections:  1. Moderate 2. Very difficult  3. Difficult  4. Moderate), but without the numerous tourists that the West Coast trail attracts. 

Breakfeast:  oatmeal with dried fruit, nuts, chocolate chips, peanut butter, and jam

We were four people, all between the ages of 21 and 25:  two German medical students who had come to Canada with hiking as a main objective;  a firefighter from Vancouver; and me, having asked the day before they were leaving whether they had space for one extra person - and gotten in!

We had no electronics with us, except for our cameras. What an amazing break away from our laptops, cellphones, iPads, iPods, iPhones, and what have you not. 



Once liberated from those devices, I re-learned how to wait. 

A nice fire is much needed after a swim in the cold ocean- Sombrio Beach

Nowadays, it seems that we need to fill every second we are not actively doing something by playing with our phones. I guess I could check my text messages, check my emails, check my bank account, check the news, check the weather, check something, anything...

 

At several moments during the 3-day hike, I waited.  With pleasure.
I waited by looking at the 15 feet-wide trees, and at the way another full-grown tree grew out of the branch of the former.  I waited by looking up at the sky and watching clouds of varying shapes and shades collide into one another. I waited by looking down and seeing a drop of rain target a single little leaf, and hit it.

Very wide tree- difficult to hug

And then the rain stopped falling. And the log started burning; and the water in the pan boiling. And the lyrics I had forgotten resurfacing. 
All that!  For only a little waiting.

The trail had its obstacles: bridges that consisted of one foot-wide tree trunks; very muddy, slippery stretches; near the beach, stretches of loose cobblestones;  and the scariest: bee nests.  We stepped on two.  Between the two of us, the firefighter and I had ten bites.  The Germans had none.

Tree trunk bridge after Sombrio Beach

But the more difficult moments were quickly forgotten when we discovered a 40 feet-high waterfall hidden in a narrow cave, and screamed as loud as we could in an attempt to overpower the thunder-like sound surrounding it.   We felt revitalized when we swam in the cold ocean, and excited when we told ghost stories around the campfire with other hikers who had joined us. We laughed as we opened the pack of mac 'n' cheese mix which the Germans had bought at a Chinese grocery store;  and which in fact turned out to be a blend of spices for a salad mix. It was a cheese-free, spicy man 'n ' cheese!

Waterfall at Sombrio Beach

We played  baseball games with sticks and stones;  sang all the songs we could remember; drew on pebbles with ashes from the fire; wrote in our diaries; and danced the waltz as we waited for a car to pick us up at the end of the trail.

We felt young again.

Pre- departure

Hello, dear friends!

As you must be aware by now, I am leaving in a few days for a nine-month trip to Vancouver (1 week), the US (1 month), South America (4 monhts) and the Middle East (4 months).  I feel as excited as a 6-year old sugar high on candy cane on Christmas eve.

I decided to keep up a blog throughout my travels for several reasons.  The first is to be able to share my experience with my family and friends, whom I will miss very dearly during 9 months. I am ever-grateful to them for supporting me and trusting me in my decision to take a year "off"-so to speak- to do this trip.

  Second is to inspire others to pack their suitcases and to travel as well: my belief is that in this era of globalization and international migration, the only way to eliminate prejudice and to appreciate people from cultures different than our own is to  go and discover their cultures for ourselves.  My guess is that similarities in human behaviours, emotions, and values will abound (but we'll see!). 

Finally, this blog will also serve as a portfolio for my future applications to journalism internships, or jobs upon my return. Hopefully, learning by doing will prove as fruitful and enriching as academic books.

I've got tiny little 3 days left in Montreal, which does not seem real. I will soon be born into a new reality;  and I feel as though I have been waiting for this moment my whole life.