Peru: It's not Just About Machu Picchu!

Colourful houses in the center of Lima 

I had the amazing fortune of spending an entire month in Peru, traveling by bus through five cities:  Lima, Huacachina, Ayacucho, Cusco, and Arequipa. Many who travel to Peru are convinced that Machu Picchu will be the highlight of their trip- and as magnificent as it was, it was definitely not my highlight.  Peru's numerous and diverse landscapes, its food, and its people were, in my eyes, its most memorable aspects.

• Extraordinary Landscapes

The sand dunes in Huacachina, near Ica,  are the most majestic landscape I
have yet seen.

Peru has everything: ocean, jungle, mountains, sand dunes. If you have the chance to go to Huacachina, get up very early in the morning to watch the sun rise over the dunes...at that moment, the only things moving are yourself and the clouds in the sky. What I couldn't help but think there and then is that if Nature is so beautiful and tranquil, it is so to inspire us to be the same, but as humans. 

An oasis is situated at a 2km's descent into the
Colca Canyon

From Cabanaconday (160 km from Arequipa), one can hike down the Colca Canyon, which is the deepest in the world (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon) at 4000 m in depth. There is an oasis at the bottom where one can spend the night for 15 soles (about 5$), eat at one of the few restaurants, hang out in the hamacs, or swim in the pool. A tourist's paradise.

Palm trees and flowers abound in the oasis at the bottom of the
Colca Canyon

 In Ayacucho (between Ica and Cusco), there is not a whole lot to do, but it is aesthetically pleasing, has many great restaurants (in particular the Via Via restaurant, where you can eat a truly delicious lunch for 9 soles, or about 3$), and is the subject of a very interesting history (it has been the center of bloody conflict between the Inca and the Huari; between the Spanish and the Inca; between Patriots and Loyalists; and finally, between the Sendero Luminoso marxist terrorists and government forces in the 1980s).

View of the cathedral and Plaza de Armas from the Via Via restaurant in Ayacucho

As for Machu Picchu, yes it is absolutely worth it -it is hard to imagine that I had debated going or not. I tend to avoid very touristy places, and it could not be more so, but for good reason. I will spare you the pain of posting yet another picture of the Inca ruins, but I must share one of the hike in the jungle on the way to Machu Picchu, which I enjoyed as much as the abandoned city itself.

The view one can enjoy on the way up to Machu Picchu

Exquisite food

The food in Peru is absolutely delicious. Among the typical meals one should try are:  rocoto relleno (stuffed pepper with beef), caldo de gallina (chicken soup with egg and vegetables), pastel de papa (a sort of "cake" made of potatoes, cream and cheese), ceviche (raw fish with lime, olive oil, coriander, served with corn and sweet potato), cuy (fried guinea pig -actually quite savoury, and very nutritive), and lomo saltado (sautéed beef with onions and peppers).  For drinks, try chicha de jora (a purple, corn-based beer), the famous pisco sour, and my favourite, emoliente:  a warm drink served on the street, which contains a wide array of medicinal plants (toasted barley, flax seeds, plantain leaf, dried grass, etc.). I'm almost certain that the emoliente saved me from getting sick a few times. 

Cuy (fried guinea pig)

Ceviche

Rocoto relleno at the front, lomo saltado at the back, and
chicha de jora

A woman is preparing emoliente in Cabanaconday

Golden People

I found Peruvians to be an extremely generous people, curious to learn about other cultures through their interactions with tourists, caring of their families, and very laid-back. The best way to meet those kind and inspiring people, in my opinion, is through couch surfing. I easily found a place to stay in Ayacucho, Cusco, and Arequipa, thanks to my beautiful hosts Juan, Hermogenes, and Anibal.

Ricardo and I, at the house of Hermogenes in Cusco

 Please allow me to share one of countless illustrations of their kindness. Not long ago, I took a two-day bus from the South of Peru to Buenos Aires. All I had for money was my debit card. We crossed the Chilean border without problem, but crossing the Argentinian border was a different story. I take the blame, I had not checked beforehand the requirements, and found out at the border control that Canadians had to pay a reciprocity fee of $75....which could only be paid online with a credit card. They would not accept cash or my debit card, so the bus driver so generously lent me his credit card. After two long hours (the Internet was not working for a while), I finally succeeded in paying the fee.  The other passengers were so understanding, and barely complained about the extra two hours I added to their trip.

Petty theft

Though rumors abound of petty theft in Peru  (and surely, it does occur -a few friends of mine did have some items stolen), I never got robbed.  Keep your bag closed and close at hand, be aware of false bills, and nothing should happen to you.  

I was unaware, at the time, that this taxi driver would steal a small amount from me.

The only time I did get robbed was when I gave a 50 soles bill to the taxi driver to pay for a 5 soles ride, and he gave me back (supposedly) 45 soles in coins!  Of course, I counted them later to find out there were  only 35 soles.  But hey, 10 soles ($4) is nothing. 

Peru is an extraordinary country to visit. You will have a great trip there, regardless of whether you speak the language or not.  But if you do speak Spanish, you will discover the most beautiful part of Peru: the generosity and warmheartedness of its people. 

Meet Hermogenes, the host of 620 couch surfers in 547 days.

Hermogenes, 34, surrounded by his two boys Ricardo and Sebastián, and by their friend Alysa.

I arrived in Cusco, Peru around 7 pm, after a 22-hour bus ride.

Exhausted, I didn’t bother to barter the price for the taxi ride. I paid the ten soles requested by the taxi driver, even though my couch surfing host had told me beforehand to pay a maximum of six soles (“For six soles”, the driver told me, “I can drive you to the Plaza de Armas. But then you’ll have to walk ten blocks. It’s up to you.”).

I arrived at the given address, surprised to have the door opened to me by two very young-looking boys. The eldest, who appeared to be about eight years old, interrogated me in Spanish.

-Who are you looking for?

-Hum, Hermogenes?

-OK yes this is the place, please come in. Sorry about the mess, we just moved in a few days ago.

The place wasn’t messy, but it was small. I scanned the single room: one double bed, one bunk bed, one table, two chairs, and a two-feet wide gas stove (although it also contained an oven, the latter was out-of-use because a rat had found refuge there once, and had unfortunately been cooked while the oven was heating up, the eight-year old had confided. So there’s lots of bacteria in there now, he concluded).

Hermogenes's home: a single room with two beds, a table, a gas oven, and a
 non-functional refrigerator

Sebastián was eight years old, and Ricardo was three. Both were clearly used to travelers crashing at their place for a night or two.

“Here is your mattress”, said Sebastián while taking out a thin blue camping mat. “Sorry there are stains on it.  It’s because lots of other people slept on it. My Dad should be coming home soon from work. If you’re thirsty, we have water already boiled”.

Wow, I thought. I can’t wait to meet the man who raised these unusually well-behaved children.

Hermogenes arrived around 8:30 pm. While cooking some dinner, he explained to me their living situation.

“We actually just moved into this place three days ago. We used to live down the street, in a much bigger place. Then, I could host many couch surfers at a time. Three, four, even five.  Here, I can only take one or two”.

I was apparently standing face to the male version of Mother Theresa.

“You see”, he continued, “The rent at the other place was $200 per month. Here, it’s only $50. This way, I can send Sebastián to private school.”.

The cost of sending him to private school is 250 soles ($92) per month. But this expense lags far behind the expenditures for food, at 900 soles ($330) per month.

Sebastián, 8, and Ricardo, 3, enjoy some chocolate-covered peanuts-
rarily figuring on the grovery shopping list

And yet, despite this modest way of living, Hermogenes hosted 620 couch surfers over the last year-and-a-half.

Founded in 2004, the website Couchsurfing provides a platform for its members to either “surf” on couches in the city they are traveling to, or to receive “surfers” in their home for a few nights.  In 2012, the website counted 3.6 million members. One year later, this number had reached 6 million, connecting members in 100 000 different cities worldwide.  A system of references (positive, negative, or neutral) allows members to gauge the reliability of the surfer they will potentially host, or of the host whose couch they may surf on.

With 146 positive references on Hermogenes’s account (not all surfers left references), I had nothing to fear as a single woman surfing at a man’s house.

The only obligation a Couchsurfing host is bound by upon acceptance of a surfer is to provide him or her with a couch to surf on.  Nonetheless, Hermogenes always outdoes this criteria, offering a key to his guests for them to have unlimited access to the house, as well as sharing breakfast, and even sometimes dinner with them.

The motivating force behind his active participation in Couchsurfing is based on the desire to learn about and to build a connection with other people, says Hermogenes: “I do it for the friendships.  For the sake of sharing. I learn many things thanks to my guests: which types of people are most appreciative of what you give them, which ones need more commodities, etc.”.

One of the many plazas in the city of Cusco, where Hermogenes lives.

Hermogenes currently works in the administrative branch of a tourism agency; but this was not always the case, he tells me:  “The kids’mother and I used to own a hotel in the historic center. We both spent over $22 000 to buy and renovate it. I was quite invested in it. I spent sleepless nights driving to the airport at night to attract potential clients to our hotel. When the mother and I separated, I left her the hotel so that she would have a source of revenue. We got back together a year later. I was expecting to resume managing the hotel with her, but she had sold it without telling me. I had to start again at zero. ”.  His facial expression was devoid of any trace of rancor. It only revealed a sense of knowledge that had been gained the hard way.

Hermogenes blows on a small fire in a ceramic bowl, in
preparation for a ceremony of the reading of coca leaves.
Proud of his Inca roots, Hermogenes considers himself a mystic.

Despite this unfortunate experience, Hermogenes still hopes to build another hotel in the future, near the new international airport in Cusco that will be built in the coming years.  

Another dream of his is to one day become the mayor of Chinchero, his home town. “I think I have good chances. I am the only person from my town who has attended a private university.”. 

Ultimately, Hermogenes’s aspirations reach beyond this: “The truth is, I would eventually like to participate in the National Congress of Peru. But all of this is down the road. I have two boys to look after for the next few years.”.

Hermogenes is one of the most inspiring people I have come across in my lifetime.  Through living and interacting with him for the eleven days I was surfing at his place, I gradually gained the belief that anything is possible; and that serious downfalls happen even to the best of us – but with the right attitude, they will always be overcome. 

Huacachina: tourists love the oasis, but are unaware of the water scarcity problem in the area

From the top of a sand dune, a view of Huacachina, with the city of Ica in the background

"Does that come with asparagus?", inquires Steven, an English tourist who is spending the day in Huacachina, hoping to catch a sand buggy ride through the majestic dunes of Ica.
He is contemplating ordering the arroz chaufa, one of the few traditional Peruvian dishes available in the restaurant Desert Nights. Most gringos (the South American term for Western tourists) tend to order burgers and fries, or beer and chicken wings.

A buggy carries tourists to the top of a dune for some sand surfing

Here is the irony: according to The Guardian, a study conducted in 2010 revealed that industrial production of asparagus in Peru's Ica valley, a large portion of which is sent overseas to the English market, is depleting the area's water resources so fast that smaller farmers are finding wells running dry. 
Steven was unaware of this.

In 2012, the National Water Authority (ANA) confirmed that water shortages in the Ica region have caused major agricultural firms to move to Northern Peru.
Yet, in the midst of this dryland glows the lake of Huacachina, the only oasis in South America. 
"Huacahina was discovered in the 1900s by the Italian Angela de Peroti. She found out that the water there had medicinal properties, like curing rheumatisms and skin diseases.", says Pablo, a tour guide in Huacachina. "There was a time where there were seven lakes in the Ica region. Out of those seven, Huacachina is the only one left.", he says.

Farmers collecting water from a well (courtesy of The Guardian)

Today, hotel owners advise against swimming in the lake, due to water contamination.  Moreover, the oasis is no longer natural, having seen its level gradually decrease over the years. "Every day, tap water is pumped into the lake from that well that you see, over there." says Pablo.   
It is said that in 2008, the water level diminished by five metres in two months. 

Despite the two or three scattered signs asking visitors to "respect the environment", the majority of them (especially the gringos) seem to be gleefully unaware of the ecological footprint their stay in Huacachina induces.
 After having sand surfed for a few hours, tourists go have a shower in one of the eleven hostels surrounding the oasis. They brush their teeth and wash their clothes anytime they wish.

They could not appreciate this unlimited access to water without knowing that 5 km away, in the city of Ica, restrictions abound. "In certain districts, residents only have access to water four hours a day. Two in the morning, and two at night.", says Eduardo, a tourist agency owner who lives in Ica. 
Does this imbalance not infuriate the residents of Ica?

Some gringos at Desert Nights, where the ´menu del dia´ consists of burgers
and fries

"They are used to it. For some, these restrictions have been in place for ten years", he shrugs. 
Christopher, an English traveler, was astounded to find out about this issue. "It´s not right... but I guess they´re still making money off of us. And I don´t think our presence here affects the restrictions in Ica. They would probably still be there". After a moment´s reflection, he adds:  "But yeah, there should be more information around about this problem.". 

Matheo, who works at the hostel Desert Nights, did not wholeheartedly embrace this suggestion. "Most people here come for a day or two. 80% are gringos, and very few speak Spanish. We cannot force restrictions upon these vacationers. There is a sign on the bathroom door that says that water is a scarce resource here in the Huacachina desert.", he says. 

Despite ecological concerns, there is a consensus among the Peruvian workers in Huacachina that tourism is extremely beneficial to the region. "If there were no tourists, many people in Ica would be unemployed", says Richard, a tour guide from Ica. "The average salary for Peruvians is 700 soles a month (250$). Here, we earn between 1500 and 2000 soles.", he explains.

I definitely had mixed feelings about staying in Huacachina. The empty sand dunes early in the morning and around sunset time are what kept me there for three days (OK, the sand surfing was pretty amazing too!).  I found out about the water scarcity issue on my last day. It´s something to be aware of... 

From top left: Richard, Pablo, Eduardo and Marcos. All four work as tour guides in Huacachina.

   

Teepees with Internet in Shambhalabamba: a Modern Self-sustaining Community in Ecuador

The common kitchen is flanked by plantain trees on side, and mountains on the other

“This place is how life should be. There is no schedule. There is no job to buy the things that you think you need. You just have to find a balance between living, working the land, and being happy.  We all support each other in doing what we want. This place is so healing.”.

Such are the thoughts of Andrea, a 27-year-old American who has been traveling through South and Central America for two years. When she first came to Shambhalabamba along with her partner, the intention was to stay a week or two.

They will soon complete their ninth month here.

 

The community of Shambhalabamba is situated in a valley near Vilcabamba, in South-Eastern Ecuador. Three acres of land were bought here by a retired American who decided to make a self-sustaining community of it. He had a house built for himself, sustained by 40-metre-high tree trunks, and six teepees for future community residents.

Fast-forward six months.

There is now a common kitchen, an auditorium for circus practice, a studio for mixing and recording music, a small man-made lake for swimming, a pond for the fish, and fields of a wide variety of crops: bananas, oranges, sweet potatoe, quinoa, amaretto, yuca, corn, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, peas, carrots, mangos, avocados, medicinal plants, and many different herbs.

The number of residents fluctuates between 18 and 25. Andrea and her partner built a little house there, and two more families are in the process of building their own houses.

One major trait unites the people of Shambhalabamba: they all aspire to live freely, working only for themselves. There are street performers, painters, DJs, producers, artisans, and musicians. They don´t gain much – but they don´t mind living simply.  Besides, the cost for staying in Shambhalabamba is of a mere five dollars per week – the necessary to cover the cost of food that is not yet grown on the property.

 

A vegan lunch: oven-roasted eggplant with garlic and tomato sauce,
pumpkin soup, beans and peppers with rice, spinach tortilla, and salad. 

In the morning, there is ususally a ´minga´. This is a time where everyone in the community gets together to complete a major task – this could be anything from transporting heavy materials, to cleaning and sowing a field, to building a clay oven.

Lunch is served for all between 1 and 4 pm (the notion of time holds very little value here, to the subdued frustration of those who try to schedule an activity at a precise hour).

In the afternoon, people do what they want.

“Every day, you ask yourself ´what should I do? Should I draw, dance, swim, cook, play music, go to the circus workshop?”, says Fiama, a 20-year-old Argentinian  who came to Shambhalabamba along with her partner and her 1-year old baby. “This place influences upon you a desire to be creative.”.

However, more so than the daily activities, residents stress the value of the human relations pervade this community. “We are mirrors of other people. It´s thanks to these human relations that you purify yourself of many things”, says Lucio, a 37-year-old Ecuadorian who came to the community with his partner and 10-year-old daughter. Andrea agrees: “ It´s about living with an open heart, and caring for others as your own family”.  Indeed, the three toddlers in the community are entertained and cared for by nearly all the residents, children and adults alike.

A short lapse of attention and... 

But like everything else, Shambhalabamba has its faults.

 “The majority of residents here are foreigners. I have never seen a local person, and very few Ecuadorians.”, says Mitchell, a Mexican expert in permeaculture who has spent time in many different communities. “Generally speaking, there is very little interaction between eco-villages and their surrounding communities. They should be supporting the needs of these communities through initiating small-scale commerce with them, or by attending the community`s festivities, for instance.".

Upon the arrival of any resident, the community holds a private reunion to decide whether to let the newcomers stay or not. Fiama, who was given an ambiguous nod to stay, laments the process: “I wish the community was more open, more relaxed. That people here wouldn´t feel like this is their land, and only theirs to share.”.

The lake on the property, mirroring the mountains.

But despite its faults, there is no denying that the way of living in Shambhalabamba holds a minimal ecological footprint, and greatly fosters self-sustainability.

“This lifestyle is the way of the future if we are going to live in harmony and balance again in this world. This system is not going to last, so it´s very important to learn how to be self-sustainable”.

According to Lucio, this lifestyle is possible, though more difficult, in the city. “In the city, it´s much easier to alienate yourself from your spirit, and from that connection to the land.”.

A circus workshop in the auditorium

Mitchell is of a similar opinion: “It´s possible, but everything will be more expensive, especially all the materials that you will need to build your own house”.

Andrea has aspirations to intertwine the two. “I want to start helping people learn how to grow their own food in their apartments. To show them that it´s possible. Anyone can do it, as long as they have the right frame of mind.”.

After spending a month there, I left Shambhalabamba with a pervading feeling of hope and inspiration. Maybe I can actually live my life exactly the way I want. I can be a journalist, a musician, an economic analyst, a photographer, a mother.

Why choose? I will try it all.

0 living expenses: living in a shack in New Orleans

Only the stairs to the front entrance of a house remain from the passage of hurricane Katrina

Sarah is the daughter of a priest. James is a professional bass player.  Chuck is studying to become a math teacher. And Tom has a master's degree in public health.
All four have been voluntarily living in temporary housing since last summer, on two lots of land bought by James for a few grands. The land is situated in the 9th Ward, the hardest-hit area by hurricane Katrina back in 2005.

The hand-made shack in the foreground, and trailer in the background

Sarah lives in a small, oval-sized trailer. Chuck and Tom alternate between a tent and a shack, which the three young men built themselves.  And James has plans to build a bigger house in the fall.

Why would four young, educated people with savings in the bank choose to live in such conditions?

"All four of us have lived in a community, and know the benefits of it", explains Chuck, 26.

I smile, remembering the moment when I first entered the shack, Chuck showing me the elevated mattress I would be sleeping on for the next two nights (I was couch surfing). As soon as we entered, Chuck frantically picked up a pair of folded jeans on the mattress, and examined the spot where there had previously been a tear:  "I love living with a woman!", he exclaimed.
I should learn how to sew, I told myself.

The shack has a bunk bed, two windows, a tiled roof, shelves, and a sofa chair

However, one thing distinguishes this community from others:  they have absolutely no living expenses.

For Chuck, avoiding these expenses is a thrill: "I think there's a sense of enjoyment when you find a way to be resourceful. It's like when you find a good deal online. It's the same thing: I find a way not to pay for rent, shoes, clothes, food. It's fun.".

Free shoes, clothes, and food are all found in one smelly, but treasure-laden place:  the dumpster.

Practicing it as a daily activity, these young adults have become experts at dumpster diving. They know which dumpster to go to for sushi on Tuesdays; for untouched pizza any day of the week at 10:05 pm after the pizza shop closes at 10:00 pm; for clean, new clothes that somehow ended up in garbage bags; and for one day-old fruits and vegetables.

A dumpster is full of strawberries,
spinach, and bananas

Chuck and Sarah enjoy still-hot pizza fresh out of the dumpster

But choosing this lifestyle is not only based on 'fun'.

Tom, in particular, is motivated by a political ideology: "Not spending money is an objective of mine. I think governments do a lot of evil, life-destroying things that I don't want to contribute to through taxes".
All four 'neighbours' are acutely aware of the environmental impact (or lack of it) that their lifestyle induces.  They collect rainwater in large cylinders, and use it for washing their clothes, bathing, and cooking.

"We don't use any electricity", says Chuck. "If everyone lived the way we did, we wouldn't need coal, gas, hydro-electric dams, etc.".

Chuck is fishing for crabs in the Industrial Canal of New Orleans

What about jobs?  Is it feasible to have one step in the professional world, and the other in the dumpster?
"Absolutely", says Chuck, who aspires to become a mathematics teacher.  "You just have to keep your professional and your personal lives separate. You have to show up to work looking good, smelling good, with a tie and a nice shirt.  Then when you get home, you take it all off. You have to live a lie".

I was deeply inspired by these four individuals. It takes courage to live with minimal security, with no revenue, and in contradiction to societal and familial expectations.  But they are young, smart, healthy, and in no hurry to satisfy anyone's expectations but their own.
Power to them.

The American West coast: 1250 miles. 7 cities. 19 days.

It took 19 days, but it rather felt like 3 months - in the best way possible. Is it completely irrational to believe that the more people you meet in a day, the more places you discover, and the more foods you taste, the more hours your day will stretch into?
Call me crazy, but I think I found a way to control time.

Part of me wishes I had spent more than 3-4 days in each city. I would have better been able to distinguish one city from the other. All I have for you is a few pointers.  
On the other hand, 3-4 days was enough to establish a most trusting and durable friendship with the Americans I stayed with along the way.  It was enough for me to send postcards to my Canadian compatriots on which I can assert that when I think of the kindest, most generous people I have met in my lifetime,  many of them are situated on the American West coast.
But friendships I cannot translate on paper. So allow me to present a brief synopsis of cities instead.

• George, Washington

My experience in George, save for a dip in a lake (on the left), was strictly a musical one.
I ended up there after seeing an ad on craigslist: Leaving Vancouver on Saturday, driving to DMB, coming back on Monday. Two days later, I was crossing the border with two strangers, or rather soon-to-be friends.


Every year, the Dave Matthews Band occupies the center stage for three consecutive days at the Gorge Amphitheatre, said to be the most impressive natural amphitheater in North America
 (where Sasquatch takes place).
I had the most amazing weekend there with Andrew
 from Vancouver, Adam from Australia, Shellane from Bellingham, and Andrea from Alaska.

• Seattle, Washington

Alright, I have to agree with the common saying that Seattle resembles Vancouver.  The ocean, the mountains, the liberal spirit, the rain.  But every city has its unique hang-out places, such as Pine Box, a very spacious, two-story restaurant in Capitol Hill.  Try their oven-baked pizzas, and one of the 50 different choices of beers on tap.



However, what was most memorable during my time in Seattle was the green space it is situated in. My friend Annie and I took a hike to the foothills of Cascade Mountains, where we reached the Goldmyer hot springs.  In the middle of the forest and adjacent to a creek, four basins with waters ranging from icy-cold to hot tub-like temperatures can hold a maximum of seven people.  Clothing optional.

• Portland, Oregon

 Apparently, Portland is America's bicycle capital. The bicycle theme was definitely prevalent in the arts and crafts sold at the weekly Saturday market, along the waterfront. Bicycle necklaces, bicycle T-shirts, bicycle paintings, you name it.
One can easily spend two hours there, trying samples of all kinds: home-made jam, meat sauces, flower-scented soaps, Californian wine...







Portland is known for its numerous microbreweries.  I strongly recommend you try a Black Butte, a delicious stout made in Oregon.
Live music is also prevalent in this charming little city.  I saw some great bands there.
I discovered most of these places thanks to my very kind couch surfing host, Bill.

• Medford, Oregon

My wonderful craigslist driver (Erik) and I stopped there just for one night on our way to San Francisco.
In Medford, I had a delightful tray of 11 beer samples.

• San Francisco, California

Ah, the much awaited for city!  The sun, the surf, the surrounding wineries!  This is what I had in mind upon my arrival in SF.  Not San Fran - I was told only tourists say that.

This pre-conceived image was clearly lacking foundation.  It was very cold when I arrived in SF, around 17 degrees Celsius, and overcast. Forget about the surfing.  And the closest winery was an hour away by car, which I did not have.

But everything turned out for the best, thanks to Kevin, Alex and Chris - three locals I met on my first night in a bar, who later showed me the best of the city. 

They lent me a bike, and we rode across the Golden Gate Bridge. We stopped in Sausalito for the most exquisite fish tacos.

I was told that SF is known for its coffee culture ("C'mon, a surf culture? Only tourists say that."). Indeed, I do believe I tasted the best coffee I've ever had in a gigantic coffee shop with multiple coffee bars. The barista told me that training for his position lasted three months.  After your coffee, head over to the 21st Amendment, a beautiful microbrewery, for San Franciscan lagers!    

•  Los Angeles, California

Several people had advised me to skip LA.  I almost took their advise,  having no particular interest in seeing Hollywood. But I reasoned myself into going anyway, not seeing a reason not to go, especially that it was on my way. Considering it was a fall back plan, my two-day stay there turned out to be an amazing time  - but only so thanks to my wonderful hosts Tim and Rene.  

We saw a great comedy show, which is supposedly a very popular form of entertainment in LA;  we visited the Getty at nighttime (free admission to one of the most renowned museums in the US, with breath-taking views of LA).  During the day, we hiked up to the Hollywood sign, and biked over to Santa Monica for some wave-jumping!

• San Diego, California

Will it sound familiar if I say that San Diego was only a memorable city because my hosts made it to be so?  I wish I could give you a little more variety.

For me, San Diego was palm trees; Mexicans starting a conversation with me in Spanish on the bus, assuming I understood them; the beach in Coronado island, peaceful except for the 15 planes that flew above us from the military aviation base; deliciously greasy Cali-Mexican food (see to the right); and bars with disturbingly well-centered animal trophies hung on the wall (see below).

And let's not forget the world-renowned San Diego Zoo, where the staff suspiciously repeated at every stop in the guided tour how this zoo is not just a zoo, it is a conservation center, a research facility, a protection haven for endangered species... look, even our benches are made of recycled plastic water bottles!  So please, do buy our backstage pass to see our animals from very very close! (See below)

You'll understand, now, how 19 days felt like a lifetime.